Reflecting on the performative facets of the MUGLER universe, the Resort 2020 collection by Casey Cadwallader embraces a contemporary view on glamour in dialogue with diverse bodies and characters. Vamp-ish airs pervade, transforming the highly-engineered structures of garments into iconic shapes that illicit a seductive theatricality. The concept of democratic dressing rises to the fore as fabrics and cuts permit new scope for height and curves, upholding notions of poise through architectural construction. A sense of movement is essential, as sharp tailoring is combined with streamlined athletic separates and technologybased shapewear built to lift and accentuate. Colours are amplified from solid black and optic white to beige, saturated red, sky blue, chocolate and tawny leopard tones.
Throughout the collection, keyhole and portrait necklines reveal a flash of décolleté, from fluid viscose gowns draped over boned corsetry to a leather glove bolero tied at the neck. From an angular constructed hip, fitted blazers, dresses and a trench coat impose a sculptural peplum that hovers over embossed cycling shorts, engineered hosiery and spike platform pumps.
The signature ‘spiral seam’ technique is expanded from denim jeans to raw-cut sleeveless tops and high-gloss twill trousers, as ruching returns in asymmetric draped jersey dresses, poplin shirt sleeves and controlled hourglass paneling. As the collection’s sole graphic motif, leopard print spots cover a coated velvet trench coat and float on satin ribbons at the waist and neck. Lacquered fishnet headpieces by Maison Michel x John Miserendino for Mugler and pointed fingernail rings exemplify the season’s flair for high drama.